Nick Curry

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Tuesday, November 8, 2005

Eating in Baisha and Lijiang

We had a couple of great meals in the past 2 days - it isn’t always obvious to eat well in touristy places, so we were pretty happy to find good food. The first was an excellent Tibetan restaurant just outside of the old town, where we had fried yak meat with cumin and some delicious fried green beans, as well as an industrial quantity of Tibetan dumplings and one of the tastiest beers I’ve had so far, the very light and smooth Lan Cang beer (brewed locally somewhere in Yunnan).

The next day we headed off to Baisha by bicycle, a small nearby village which we hoped might be less touristy. The village itself was pretty quite, and although it was lined with knick-knack shops, we had an excellent meal in a menu-less shack on the street - a delicious tomato-based dish with spring onions and scrambled egg, very simply cooked but brilliant thanks to the extraordinarily fresh and strong tomato. It came with an excellent mushroom dish, of a type of mushroom I hadn’t seen before, cooked with onions and ginger, and some rice noodles; probably the second-best meal so far after the Tibetan, but so simple.

In Baisha we also met the world-famous Dr Ho, who has appeared on BBC and the french TF1 as well as in numerous newspaper articles worldwide. We know this because he showed us the clippings - he accosted us on the street, and very kindly invited us in for tea. We explained that we had no money at that point (it had all gone on the deposit for the bicycles), but he insisted on having us in and told us a little about his life, which does seem quite extraordinary - he quit medical school due to ill-health, taught himself how to use herbs in order to heal himself, and has been practising ever since. Among his accomplishment are having cured several people of leukemia and cancer, sometimes for very little or no money. It would have been interesting to talk to him longer, as he seemed like an interesting character, but as Ross pointed out, he had other people to talk to, so we made our way…

posted by Nick at 8:14 am  

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